spike
6 posts
Joined: 09/03/2005 13:54:52
Location: Beddington United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Scuttle Panel Repair, please help!!!!!!
I need to replace my scuttle panel on my mini and have brought a new one but on taking the window out i notice it seems to be in more than one layer, does anyone know if i need to buy an inner scuttle panel as well?/
Posted: Aug 30, 2005 09:13 PM
Dave
23 posts
Joined: 25/04/2005 15:34:10
Location: Banbury United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Scuttle Repair Panel
i dont know if you need an inner scuttle panel or not, but you will have to cut your wings off if you are replacing the whole panel. and then you will need new ones as they are welded on. i also need to do this with my Mini, but i need to do my A post aswell
Posted: Sep 01, 2005 11:50 AM
im replacing the whole front end as there is always rust around the lights on sportspacks for some reason, i have just put a new front end on a mayfair that was in an accident (new front panel, 2 wings,2 A panels, 2 new door skins) the scuttle was ok on that car but my sportspack scuttle is totally rotten!
Posted: Sep 01, 2005 03:37 PM
Scuttle Panel Repair
in that case, im not sure. i guess you will just have to cut away what is rotten and see what it is like undreneath the top layer. if you are lucky then it will only be a bit of surface rust.
Posted: Sep 02, 2005 02:37 PM
Chris
3 posts
Joined: 30/10/2005 09:04:18
Location: Winsford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hi Spike, As previouslymentioned the frong wings will have to come offas the scuttle panels are fastened to the wings. There is also a closure plate below the scuttle which willprobably require replacing as well. Usually if its not to rotten you can get away with just replacing the corners. On my daughters car I have had to replace both sides Apanel, door pillar front wings and fron panel. Unfortunately the more you reveal shows more work. Once started you just slowly progress. Youll get quite good at welduing, believe me. Dont forget to make sure no spraks get in the car as they burn little holesin everyting. Chris L
Posted: Nov 05, 2005 09:22 AM
ElmLab
4 posts
Joined: 15/11/2004 11:46:17
Location: Harpenden United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Having just done this job on yet another Mini I can confirm that it is usually the outer panel that has rusted away leaving the bulkhead panel more or less intact. You can therefore weld a simple repair secton onto the bulkhead after cutting out the rust on the scuttle to get the windscreen apperture back and reprofile the scuttle with filler. At least the filler will not rust out again.
Posted: Nov 27, 2005 12:31 PM
Chris_G
39 posts
Joined: 30/12/2004 09:27:39
Location: Milton Keynes United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Too big a project for a n00b?
Howdy. I recently bought myself my third Mini, this time determined to get it up to the spec I want. One of the big problems with this car is the condition of the bodywork. The tin worms have been feeding themselves heavily on all of the front panels including the sings, front panel, A panels, scuttle, and a section of the drivers side sill. My original plan was to strip it down to a rolling shell then send it off to be repaired, leaving me free to work on the engine while the body’s away. But the thought of parting with so much money doesn’t fill me with joy and I wonder if it might be possible for me to do this work myself. Now I think a lot of the panels might be salvageable, and I’m not after winning any concourse events, I just want it to look tidy, so I reckon with a bit of elbow grease and fibre glass filler, I should be able to repair some of the panels. A friend has the equipment for spraying and while it wouldn’t be a perfect finish, I reckon we could make a decent job of it. There are a couple of problem areas though which are making me think twice about going down the route. The first is the scuttle panel. It’s rusted through and repairing this would be a pretty major task, probably resulting in a good 5 inches or so of filler, maybe more depending on what it’s like under the paint. This amount of filler would probably be prone to cracking, and that’s assuming it’d even stop this amount of rot in its tracks. Ideally the scuttle panel would need replacing but that means cutting and welding and this is something I’d rather avoid as I have no experience of this whatsoever. It’s the same story with the driver’s side sill, which is rusted through in patches and ideally should be welded. This isn’t quite so bad as it’s not in such a noticeable place as the scuttle. I’ve got very little experience of rust repair and my experience of working with filler is limited to using it to make models in GCSE Design. I’ve got an eye for detail, but I’m wondering if this is maybe too ambitious a project and I might be better off leaving it to the pros? Thoughts, opinions, or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Posted: Apr 04, 2006 01:38 PM
Derek Newbury
1 posts
Joined: 21/03/2021 12:19:11
Location: Aylesbury United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Mini finished
Hi All, Mini mpi all done two doors & side panels repaired other wise all original paint 45,000 miles one previous owner and 23 service stamps.
Posted: May 16, 2022 01:16 PM
pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Panels
The front side of the A post should be easy enough as there is a scuttle repair panel for that and was relatively easy to fit when I did my first ever body repairs. As for the door side - is this above or below the weld line on the side? (See arrow on picture) If its below, again its easy enough as its just a new A panel, but if its above, then its the door frame, and thats a bit harder to do. There are repair sections for these and they are no more expencive than others, its just that a lot of the load from driving the car (and crashing if it comes to it) goes through there and it need to be done properly particularly if its failed on this as the MOT station will be checking this specifically. Basically, take your time, measure twice cut once and all that and you should be ok. Its not impossible, just takes a bit of guts to start cutting chunks off your car. If this is the worst of it, then £200 or so for panels and filler should sort it out. Better than - how much are they now? - several grand anyway for a new shell and you still have to transfer every single nut, bolt, washer and clip onto it. Not an easy task when you think about it. Oh, forgot to mention that this sort of repair will require a new wing as it has to be cut off to get to the scuttle.
Posted: Jul 25, 2005 06:29 PM
Ellis
5 posts
Joined: 09/10/2006 20:49:03
Location: Brecon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
A Panel replacement '87 mini
A Panel (off side) & wing rusted so have cut off to replace them however the door pillar lip that the A Panel wraps over is completely rusted away. Is it just the "repair panel inner wing to A panel" I require or what is the "repair panel A post"? I cant find any info in the Haynes MiniRestoration Manual, can anyone direct me to a website or a printed article please? Or am I out of my depth to attempt such repairs, I'm shortly due to start a night school welding class. Thanks
Posted: Oct 11, 2007 08:35 PM
fids
15 posts
Joined: 12/05/2005 07:42:05
Location: Hereford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rust repair
I would say the only option would be to cut it right out and either weld in new metal or weld a new repair panel in see www.minimachine.co uk for a propper repair panel, a quick repair can be achive by an angle grinder with a wire wheel on, apply some rust treatment then fill the affected area with body filler primer and paint, this sort of repair will last approx 12 months -2 years. Hope this helps nick.
Posted: Jul 16, 2005 11:01 PM
Kubrall
Joined: 13/03/2005 16:38:59
Location: Huddersfield United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
mini boot repaire panel
Probably a stupid question, but I have cut all the rot out of the boot but the repair panel does not fit correctly, obviously not enough metal cut out. The 2 options I have is to remove the rear subframe and then fit the panel all the way back or to cut the panel to fit. Is there anything I need to be aware of, i.e I need to remove the subframe to fit this panel or am I Ok to cut the repair panel
Posted: Mar 13, 2005 04:51 PM
Inch_Speller
7 posts
Joined: 27/11/2005 14:30:36
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Floor Problem
Hi Im new to minis havving started my Project a couple of months ago and having a whole lot to replace/ repair like siills (3 on either side that ill have to sort soon) A panels Flitch panels Boot corners..... and the list goes on and on and on.... From what Ive learnt its far Its easier to replace a panel rather than repair it.
Posted: Nov 30, 2005 08:05 AM
Bodywork - where and how much
I’ve just bought myself a 1994 Mini Sprite, and I’m very pleased with it. Unfortunately having lived near the sea for most of it’s life, it’s got a chronic case of tin worm. Basically the A panels, wings, front panel and scuttle panel will all need replacing, and the drivers side sill repairing, plus a sand, seal ‘n’ spray all over. I know this wont be cheap but I got the car at a decent price, taking into account getting this kind of work done. I know it’s not a quick job either but it’s a second car for me so I don’t mind it being in a body shop for a while. Question is, how much is this kind of work going to cost roughly? And secondly, is there anywhere in the 3 counties area (particularly local to Milton Keynes) that specialises in Mini body repair, or am I better off just taking it to a generic body shop? Any help or advice greatly appreciated.
Posted: Mar 27, 2006 09:44 AM
john
25 posts
Joined: 15/01/2008 17:41:40
Location: worcester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Repairing boot floor questions????
hi everyone
As you can see from the photos,i need to get my boot floor repaired ( holes around the spare tyre area and battery box and both cornes by the lights have rusted ).What would be the best option to buy and repair? should i buy a full boot floor panel or just get corner repair panels and patch up the holes with plates??? Also,if i replace these panels do i have to replace the rear valance aswell???
Cheers
Posted: Nov 16, 2008 06:45 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
is she worth repairing
Anything can be repaired on a mini, and much more easily than on a modern car, and if you're doing the welding yourself then because the panels are so cheap it can actually be "worth it" in financial terms. As to whether you want to put all those long hours in for nothing - only you can decide if you love your mini enough!
Posted: Jul 15, 2009 10:12 AM
replacing front
Sorry, I don't know any body shops in that area, but I would have a look in your yellow pages, or just look round the local industrial estate - there's always loads of little car repair places and you're bound to find someone who is "mini-friendly". Changing to a Clubman front is likely to be difficult (plus the panels are much more expensive) compared with sticking to the standard front, as you would need to change the inner wings as well as the outers. Flip-fronts are do-able, I personally don't like them and I think they detract from the originality (and hence value).
Posted: Sep 18, 2009 12:05 PM
A Panels
The A panels are pretty simple to weld, especially if you've got the wings off anyway because you may well find you need to do a lot of repair work in the inner wing.
Posted: Jun 24, 2010 06:02 PM
mini front skirt mot failure?/repair pannel?
You can get repair sections for the corners, which I think include the sidelight holes, and that's where the front panel usually rusts. If the rust is also in the front wings round the headlights, where they join onto the front panel, you may have a problem. A complete new front panel is quite cheap, as are the front wings, if you go for the MiniSpares offerings.
Posted: May 30, 2006 11:25 AM
Guy
Joined: 26/08/2006 21:34:16
Location: Great Missenden United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rear of Rear Sub-frame Mounting Welding - Load On or Off?
Hello, Can anyone give me any general advice on this repair please?
But specifically regarding: The new “Floor to wheel arch bracket” (part# 14A6609) fits well under load (i.e. wheel on ground) but the valance mounting panels has a great big gap between it and the boot floor. If I take the load off: the valance mounting bracket/boot floor gap closes but the floor to wheel arch bracket does not fit at all well. Both the valance and its bracket are very sound. I also have to fit new panel called “Boot side repair panel” (part# MS24R) MiniSpares photo below.
Posted: Aug 17, 2007 02:55 PM